If the tor spot is only on the top of the section (through the thickness) and not visible on the outside you can probably put a top truss on the door and a vertical opener bracket on the stile the opener is mounted on. Most times this will prevent further cracking. If the door is new the top section could be replaced also. If it is older the new section will show. Whatever you do, do not let the original installer do the work as they seem to not know what they are doing. (unless the door is guaranteed and they do it for free, the parts I value under $60).
This is very common in cheaper doors. Any garage door, regardless of size, HAS to have a minimum of one reinforcement strut along the top section, to brace it and keep it from flexing when the opener acts against it. Any double-width door should also have at least one more strut on the #2 section, to keep it from flexing down when the door is open. Oftentimes, builders use the cheapest doors possible, which aren't braced properly.
When you replace the door, regardless of the type, MAKE SURE that it includes two struts if 16 x 7, and three struts if 18 x 8.
Another issue- it's also possible that the springs were not properly adjusted, so excessive force was being applied to the top section. It's imperative that you test your door manually a couple times a year to check for proper spring balance. The door installer should explain all this to you.
If the top panel has torn, there's something very wrong. You say "torn" which makes me believe it's a metal door, not wood. Metal doors aren't heavy, so there must be either unbalanced springs to cause the door to raise unevenly (one side higher than the other), or poorly fitted tracks, or absence of lubrication at the tracks, or some other condition to cause lots of resistance. I'd respectfully recommend you spend half a thousand to have a professional firm put in a brand new door with new tracks and new opener. It will give you many years of trouble free service. If you try to patch together what you have now, I fear you'll be cursing it and throwing money at it for years, without ever being happy with it.
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If the tor spot is only on the top of the section (through the thickness) and not visible on the outside you can probably put a top truss on the door and a vertical opener bracket on the stile the opener is mounted on. Most times this will prevent further cracking. If the door is new the top section could be replaced also. If it is older the new section will show. Whatever you do, do not let the original installer do the work as they seem to not know what they are doing. (unless the door is guaranteed and they do it for free, the parts I value under $60).
This is very common in cheaper doors. Any garage door, regardless of size, HAS to have a minimum of one reinforcement strut along the top section, to brace it and keep it from flexing when the opener acts against it. Any double-width door should also have at least one more strut on the #2 section, to keep it from flexing down when the door is open. Oftentimes, builders use the cheapest doors possible, which aren't braced properly.
When you replace the door, regardless of the type, MAKE SURE that it includes two struts if 16 x 7, and three struts if 18 x 8.
Another issue- it's also possible that the springs were not properly adjusted, so excessive force was being applied to the top section. It's imperative that you test your door manually a couple times a year to check for proper spring balance. The door installer should explain all this to you.
If the top panel has torn, there's something very wrong. You say "torn" which makes me believe it's a metal door, not wood. Metal doors aren't heavy, so there must be either unbalanced springs to cause the door to raise unevenly (one side higher than the other), or poorly fitted tracks, or absence of lubrication at the tracks, or some other condition to cause lots of resistance. I'd respectfully recommend you spend half a thousand to have a professional firm put in a brand new door with new tracks and new opener. It will give you many years of trouble free service. If you try to patch together what you have now, I fear you'll be cursing it and throwing money at it for years, without ever being happy with it.
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its possible that the header over the garage door is too small to support the weight of the roof on the opening