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Look in the fuse box under the hood for the AC Compressor Clutch Relay, you can unplug and get it tested or test yourself. Another thing you can test is the pressure sensor, unplug it and short the terminals in that wire harness plug together while the A/C system is running (and all wires properly hooked up) to fool the system into thinking it's getting the "ok" signal from the sensor. If the compressor starts this says the sensor is bad. One of these two things are your electrical problem.

The weird noise and car dying after the A/C started getting cold could be one of three things

(1) overcharging will cause the compressor to stall, smoke and/or stop the belt connected to the crankshaft from turning - overcharge would happen if you miscalculated how many cans to add or did not evacuate first, and then jumped 12v to the compressor to force it to take everything you fed into it. Hopefully you just overcharged it and can correct that, maybe it will work again. Let's hope.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Your system was originally designed for R12 refrigerant. When you use R134a, you only put in 3/4 of the specified weight of refrigerant. For example, if it says to put in 100 grams of R12, then you only put in 75 grams of R134a.

(2) the compressor was defective and collapsed/seized on you. Either way, you might need a complete flush, new expansion valve and accumulator if there was a catastrophic compressor failure. This is a world of hurt, but maybe they will give you a new compressor if you met all their warranty requirements when you bought it.

(3) If all the R12-compatible oil was not removed when the system was converted for R134a, you definitely now need to flush and get a new expansion valve and accumulator. If you skipped evacuation, what happened was the new oil, old oil, R134a and moisture mixed to form a sludge that seized up the compressor. R12 systems can be converted but extra care must be taken to remove all the old oil. And always always use a real vacuum pump to completely evacuate before charging, see the link.

The high pressure you read after the compressor shut down is normal, this low-side reading just tells you how low the pressure is getting on the vacuum side of the compressor when it's running. When it shuts down, gas in the high side naturally equalizes back to the low side increasing the pressure there. See the link with instructions and pictures of a dude properly charging up his Civic.

OMG! stop THROWING money on the situation. Get it completely clinically determined till now you spend to any extent further money, or you will finally end up with a clean automobile on your radiator cap. I additionally suspect you're exaggerating once you assert it looses 80% of its skill. If that have been actual then the AC would not be working in any respect. additionally you might have a frozen compressor. it's time to deliver the vehicle into an AC save or yet another mechanic that does AC paintings. they are going to discover the situation and attach it. this is going to cost you a pair of greenbacks too, yet you have already thrown ineffective money on the situation. As for why the compressor kicks on and rancid rapidly like that - this is low freon interior the gadget. do no longer in common terms attempt including extra considering the fact which you would be able to offer different subjects, and forcing the compressor to run continuously would injury it. there's a clarification for the protection units on your automobile. They guard the structures. desire this helps. 'av'a g'day mate. '')